
Category Archives: Life
Český Krumlov
I have been trying to work out how to describe Český Krumlov, Czech Republic, just right… it is not at all what I expected, which shouldn’t really be a surprise given what I have already experienced on this trip. But if I had to describe it… this is where I would live if I was indeed, a Disney Princess… which is something I have given more thought than I care to admit. But it would be seriously perfect for this, tiny cobblestone streets, a beautiful river, picturesque skyline and an ancient castle complete with a bear moat… seriously a moat with bears instead of water… not ideal for the bears right now, but definitely Disney princess movie worthy… because it would be cartoon and the bears would be part of the family in a totally animal rights approved way.

Just to add to the magic that was Český we stayed in the one of the greatest places I have ever walked into… The Old Inn, right in the town square. An Inn which I am pretty sure has just been added to over time. The stairs and floors have no real order, you just follow the signs around twists and turns until you get to your room… which for us was right up the very top… in the attic… it was super cosy and ticked ‘have a room in the attic, complete with slanted roof’ off my life bucket list… although the roof did make the shower a little more complicated then it should have been… I have never had to kneel to shower… and I hope I don’t have to again… but it was fun for a night.

Oh… and we visited our 4th museum for the year today… which means no. 76 is off the list. Not bad for day 12 of 2016!

Auschwitz-Birkenau
As we drove out of Poland today we stopped at Auschwitz-Birkenau. Words can’t really express what it was like to stand where so many others stood in horrible conditions. To walk through the barracks they lived in. To see the conditions, breathe the air, and hear the stories of those who had gone before.
Auschwitz is an eerie place, but being there today in the cold, still, foggy conditions made the realities of its use during WWII so much more confronting. As I stood there rugged up with thermals, 3 jumpers, scarf, gloves and thermal woollen socks in my sturdy shoes, still shivering, I couldn’t help but think of those forced to work in similar weather conditions with nothing more than prison pyjamas and bare feet. As we walked though a remaining barrack at Birkenau that had housed hundreds of women in cramped and uncomfortable bunks, it made our race each morning for a good seat on the tour bus seems ridiculous, when all 50 of us would have been housed in just over 6 bunks. And as I looked at what little remained I was reminded that we as humans know when we are doing something wrong… we cover our tracks, we blow things up so they can’t be identified, burn things down and remove the evidence… we know… they knew.
I think the thing I have been finding most confronting particularly about WWII is lies the Jewish people were told constantly and despite the fact that so many never returned, so many still came with hope. Hope that they were in fact going to a better place, hope that work would set them free, hope that they would live, despite what they had heard and could see. They came under the lies of resettlement, bringing their best belongings. They were told they would live in rooms complete with twin chimneys – stoves for heat and cooking, stoves that were never used. The were told they could stay with their children as they were washed, only to have their dignity stolen as they stripped down and then held the hands of their loved ones as they died together. Only to have their belongings sorted, donated or sold. Only to be exploited even in death.
It’s hard to believe that it isn’t just some horrible story. That this actually happened… and that despite it’s warning not to let it happen again that mass killings and genocide seem to continue with uncomfortable frequency.
There was a quote in the doorway that said:
“Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it”
George Santayana
And I think we forget too often… I hope that I never forget the things that I have seen today… that I never gloss over a past this horrific. But more than anything I really do hope it stops repeating.

Kraków
Working my through all these places has made me realise how little I actually know about anything… and that the little I did know is so tainted with Hollywood… most of it is incorrect… enter Poland just to confirm this…
So here are some Polish fun facts that I now know are true because I lived it… or I read it while in Poland… so that makes it legit.
- Polish Dumplings are a thing… they are called pierogi and they look a lot like Asian dumplings… but they have their own Polish flair… I can’t tell you which came first, but I can tell you both are delicious.
- The Warwel Castle in Krakow is said to be built on the lair of Krak the dragon… so it’s may not be confirmed fact… but I did learn it at the foot of the castle so I think it counts… it also carries it’s own fact and legend… FACT: there is a statue of Krak the dragon outside the castle… LEGEND: it apparently shoots fire every 15mins or so… I saw some fire from a distance… but despite waiting right up close… I never saw it again…
- Oskar Schindler was a complex guy… he saved a lot of people… but I am not sure if that was always his plan… I am sure glad he did, but I not convinced he is the clear cut war hero I thought he was before I checked out the museum they made in his old factory.
- There is a church… in the Jewish quarter that has a fairly sizable prison cell on the front of the building where adulterers were held… so everyone could see… and so they could have some time out.
- There is a dagger hidden in the main market square… the dagger is said to be the weapon used by one of the two brothers who built the towers of St Mary’s Basilica to kill the other brother because he was jealous that the tower his brother built was better than his… Oh and in the tower there is a trumpeter that plays the ‘Krakow Anthem’ but only up to a certain point… It is stopped abruptly because legend has it the trumpeter was shot in the throat when sounding the alarm way back in 1241… They re-enact it one the hour every hour…

Budapest
Every country we go to makes it much harder to pick my favourite stop… the whole of this continent is incredible… Today I am writing from Hungary… seriously… did I just type that? Hungary… who would have thought? Hungary… well Budapest in particular has once again blown my expectations out the water… last night we climbed to the top of ‘Buda’ and looked out over beautiful ‘Pest’ and then enjoyed the incredible thermal pools that our hotel… which was pretty flippin awesome before we found this out… was built on. Seriously is there anything better than sitting in a 40°C thermal pool surrounded by snow? Probably not… especially considering it crosses no. 47 off the list. We also got to check out the local Hungarian cuisine and the local nightlife at possibly the most random building I have ever been in, an abandoned communist building converted into a night club, fitted with the most eclectic collection of art… memorabilia… nostalgic… random things.

But I think the highlight of Budapest has to have been today… After traveling with 48 other people for 10 days sometimes it’s nice to just hang out with your favourite person… alone… so today Dave and I explored everything we could possibly find in Budapest… The Castle, St Matthias’ Church, St Stephen’s Church (This was runner up to highlight… it has a dead guys preserved hand… in a little cabinet… on display… that often participates in parades… so very good!), the Parliament building, the shoes along on the Danube – an incredibly moving memorial to the Jewish people who were murdered there in WWII, the ‘House of Terror’, Hero’s Square, a pretty incredible Ice skating rink, an enchanting castle in the park (yep… no. 75 is now off the list too), the market place, a ride on the worlds first underground rail system, a beautiful dinner by the river looking over to our incredible hotel and then finishing the day by sneaking into the rock church behind a local and just pretending we knew what we were doing… all in very very very cold weather… sunny, but freezing… like -6°C freezing…

It has been so incredible to see so many amazing places, but even more special to be seeing them all with Davo… I couldn’t have picked a better travel buddy… and we aren’t even halfway yet!
Wordless Wednesday: Hello Ljubjana

Dear Slovenia… Sorry I misjudged you.
Ok even though it is ‘Wordless Wednesday’… this Wednesday also needs some words because we only have one night in Slovenia and I need to tell you that I was completely wrong about it.
Going into Slovenia I expected a poor country with lots of concrete and limited beauty… I don’t really know why I expected this… it’s just the image I had when I thought about it… I guess it was my prejudice. It turns out I could not have been more wrong.
Slovenia… well both Bled and Ljubljana anyway, were beautiful, enchanting places, filled with all the best Europe has to offer, beautiful architecture, cute streets, an abundance of delicious food and a pretty epic castle. It also had the best lights I have seen to date, turning a dark winter into a pretty magical experience. And even though we only got to see the capital (Ljubljana) in the dark, it is on my list of top places… especially given it is the home of the most delicious upgrade to the vanilla slice I have ever tried… the Kremsnita.

Munich
Munich is a big place, but when you only have just over half a day there, the best thing to do is pop it on the ‘places I must return to’ and spend your time eating delicious German goodies and hanging out in the best German restaurants you can find… which also means crossing no. 60 off this years list.
So far on our trip, this is the place that has most felt like home… maybe I will have to dig up my year eight German books for our next trip. It is such as beautiful city…

Kirchdorf
If you had told me a year ago that I would learn to ski properly in Austria, I would have scoffed and walked away… but that’s exactly what happened… and now I can ski… I am probably not going to be a champion skier but I kept my number of falls to one hand.
Austria has been a winter wonderland… proper tobogganing, walking home in the snow, skiing, ribs, schnitzel and oompa music and even with all this, pretty relaxing. Austria has been our longest stop on the trip and 3 days has been perfect to unwind and enjoy. We built a snowman, had burgers from an Australian that makes a living selling Aussie style burgers and toasties and played the spoons like we had been born to do it.
Three things I know for sure: 1. I will ski again, 2. A career in Spoons has never looked so good and 3. We will go back to Austria


A Different Kind of Verona
O Romeo, Romeo, Where for art thou Romeo… Welcome to Verona, Italy… not to be confused with the Verona, New Jersey, the suburb that I called home for a little while. We were only here for an hour, but we were able to pop in on Juliet and her balcony… and her love wall… and the locks… and ‘Have a Shakespeare Moment’

Quick Verona fun facts…
- Shakespeare never came to Italy… but there were some local texts that were very similar to Romeo and Juliet written long before Shakespeare… and by very similar I mean just make Montague and Capulet sound Italian… that’s it… So maybe the story was borrowed… Either way Verona wins out.
- There is a complete Colosseum here that is the 3rd largest that has been found… and they still use it for concerts… pretty neat.
So long Italy… Till Next time… Ciao.